Chaos & Tranquility: Two Weeks in Thailand

Location: Koh Phi Phi

Ever dreamed of stepping into a Pirates of the Caribbean island port? Picture the two-story wooden structures, narrow cobblestone streets damp with saltwater, and the hustle and bustle of people peddling their wares. Well, a similar enchanting scene can be found on Koh Phi Phi Don.

The Phi Phi islands are renowned for their striking gray and tan rocks rising from the blue waters, flour-like white sand beaches, and turquoise waters. Here, Riley and I decided to embark on a scuba diving adventure.

Waking up in our lively 14-person hostel dorm on our first day in Koh Phi Phi, we hastily made our way to the dive shop, setting sail on a boat by 8 am. The day unfolded in an underwater wonderland, weaving through tunnels, encountering dark eels with snapping mouths, and gliding alongside majestic turtles. I recalled my PADI instructor's words, "75% of the world is covered by the ocean; it's a shame most people don't get to see any of it." The beauty below is so different from on land that it makes me feel like I am no longer human but a creature that is happily experiencing all nature has to offer on this captivating planet. 

By late afternoon, the boat carried a sleepy Riley and me back to the mainland. After returning to the hostel, we refreshed ourselves with outdoor showers, changed, and geared up for the night.

Adorned in sundresses, we hit the streets, hunting for the night market with its enticing array of $1-3 street food. Swiftly finding it, we strolled beneath the string lights, passing double rows of tents offering pad thai, meat kebabs, fruit smoothies, and more. Grabbing a cheap Chang (the popular local beer of Thailand) and a couple of kebabs to go, we found a table, observing tourists and locals alike mingling in the lively market.

As we wrapped up, we peeled our sweaty thighs off plastic chairs, setting out to find live music. We passed Thai boxers in one bar and loud EDM in another until we stumbled upon a small bar with open doors revealing a young Thai man belting out world-famous hits. Perching on bar stools, surrounded primarily by young European holidaymakers, we swayed to the tunes. Hit after hit played, from "American Pie" to "All I Want for Christmas" to "Iris." A generous bucket of mojitos appeared, and we sipped away, smiling at the singer. Eventually, I was pulled up on stage to help him sing Baby by Justin Bieber and then again to sing Love Story by Taylor Swift. People got up to dance, and I found myself very happy with my life, thankful for all the joy in it. Before we knew it, midnight arrived, and riding the high from dancing, we ventured to the beach rave.

In summary, we each conquered the mechanical bull, danced on a table, and reveled in dancing in the sand beneath the stars. Exhausted by 2 am, we sprinted down the beach, plunged into the ocean, and returned to the hostel drenched. After rinsing off in the shower, we slipped into our PJs and drifted into a well-deserved sleep.

Location: Ao Nang, Railay

Scaling the pale and grey spires overlooking the blue ocean is a scene straight out of a movie or an Apple TV photo slideshow—one I never expected to experience myself. So you can imagine my thrill at waking up and spending 8 hours of my day at Railay, the neighboring beach infamous for climbing.

Arriving at Railay after a brief long-tail boat ride over calm waters, we collected our gear (harness, chalk bag, and climbing shoes) from the climbing shop in the heart of Railay. Despite its reputation, Railay, a small beachside town with two resorts, exudes relaxed vibes, featuring open-air bars and cannabis shops. After gearing up, we walked five minutes down to the beach, where a towering rock wall lined the water. With my climbing experience, I proudly tied myself in with a figure-eight knot, earning the honor of being the first to ascend. The routes were easy enough with an infinite number of holds due to outdoor climbing being less limited than its indoor counterpart (with its colored holds and predetermined routes). After a few routes, always pausing at the top to look at the view, Riley and I headed into town, stomachs rumbling and sweat dripping down our backs.

At the "Family Restaurant" across the street from the climbing shop, we ordered Pad Thai, Spicy Basil Chicken with Rice, and fruit smoothies. Feeling refueled, we headed for a different climbing spot called the Phra Nang Cave. This one was slightly more inland, surrounded by a jungle-like environment and a cave on the far right side of the wall. Racing against mosquitoes that trailed us up the wall, we continued climbing until our arms and fingers protested.

The town exploration that followed, promising a return, brought us back to the boat in time to reach our Ao Nang hostel by 5 pm. After showering, we ventured to the night markets for an unlimited street food feast. Curry, Chang beers, and banana-rolled ice cream filled our bellies before we succumbed to deep sleep.

Location: Koh Phagan

When we were in a Balinese bar, listening to live music, I pondered the magic that unites people—whether it's "popular songs or alcohol that creates camaraderie," as written in my journal. In a world where everyone knows the lyrics to a song, where musicians feel the music, and the crowd syncs into a lively, comforting, and positive vibe—this is the soul-stirring magic of live music. When it comes to EDM beats, I do not feel the same way. For me, my body responds to the music, but my soul does not. My hips may sway, my head might nod in tempo, and I may feel the alcohol rush through my body, making my mind hazy and less critical of my environment. But live music, rock music, pop music, and music with lyrics and stories are something I can enjoy in a state of sobriety.

Koh Phangan, known for its vibrant party scene, welcomed us to the Half Moon Festival, a celebration of music and revelry. I was very excited upon arrival.

Our arrival in Koh Phangan for the Half Moon Festival unveiled the island's reputation as a hub for revelry, catering to and thriving on its status as a party haven. Weekly extravaganzas, some tied to lunar cycles and others simply celebrating the joy of partying, lit up the beaches and jungles. These festivals boasted large overhangs strung up in the trees, makeshift bars, DJ setups, fire dancers on the beach, and neon paint, creating vibrant designs on partygoers' bodies. Riley and I, like typical tourists, were eager to dive into this vibrant gathering of predominantly young, possibly intoxicated souls from around the globe.

That night, we hit up the 7/11 for some cheap soju, donned our sundresses, and rendezvoused with fellow travelers from our hostel. Together we hopped into the back of a pickup truck bound for the beach. Strings of lights illuminated the scene, and a sea of people gathered in front of the DJ. After securing our drinks, we joined the pulsating crowd. Engaging with two girls who reveled in the EDM beats, we closed our eyes and surrendered to the rhythm—why not? It was fun! Yet, after about an hour, the yearning for music with words and perhaps a lively bar filled with conversation took over.

The outcome? Riley and I decided to call it a night. Loading up the back of a Tuk Tuk, we journeyed back to the hostel, responsibly chugging our pre-bought vanilla protein shakes before slipping into a restful sleep. The next morning we rose bright and early, ready to embark on a ferry journey to Koh Samui, the island hosting the closest International Airport. Our next destination awaited—northern Thailand, specifically Chiang Mai. The airport in Koh Samui emerged as a favorite on our journey. Its stunning open-air design not only captivated us aesthetically but also embodied sustainability with wooden structures hosting comfortable seating sections and complimentary food and drink areas. Limited energy needs reflected a commitment to eco-conscious practices, leading us to ponder if other airports could adopt some of these features.

Location: Chiang Mai

Upon arriving in Chiang Mai, the urge to explore overwhelmed me, and I immediately laced up my Hokas, embarking on a run around the Old Town. This heart of the city, surrounded by a crumbling brick wall and a canal, felt like an ancient castle guarded by a moat. Old Town's charm unfolded in the absence of buildings over two stories, bustling streets hosting markets and vendors offering tempting street food, and serene pockets adorned with trees and ornate white-and-gold temples, lanterns strung around them.

Clad in my running attire, I discovered a rule: my shoulders and legs must be covered to enter the sacred spaces, making my sports bra and spandex unsuitable. Adjusting to the local customs, the next day saw me donning long, black, loose-fitting pants and a T-shirt. Accompanied by Riley, we embarked on a hike to two large temples, navigating the challenging "Monk Walk." Amidst the heat, humidity, and copious sweat, our saviors came in the form of Avocado Coconut Smoothies.

The trail led through a lush, steep jungle, the brownish-red muddy dirt beneath our feet telling tales of our trek. The temples stood as majestic compounds, ornate staircases ascending to intricate structures embellished with dragons. Courtyards housed large stone statues, while inside, gold statues of women in cross-legged positions received prayers within the old stone and wooden buildings.

Photos 1 & 7 taken by Riley Clark (KeepItWildxRiley)

Exhausted and elated upon our return to the Airbnb, our joy was further heightened—it was Saturday, meaning the night markets were in full swing. We took our showers, washed away the sweat and grime, put on our loose, fitted pants and crop tops, and headed down to the markets. 

You can smell the ripe fruit, savory spices, and sizzling meats being grilled, and a host of other scents. You can hear the chatter of many different languages and the sounds of noodles being fried before you even turn onto the street. Upon arriving, we see hundreds of people meandering down the street, rows and rows of tents with a plethora of choices. We spend the first 30 minutes weaving our way down the first row, seeing many different soups, stir-fries, and other meat-filling works behind the stands. Different tropical fruits are laid atop smoothie carts, and a large array of sushi stop platters catches our eye. We pick 8 different roles and pay 1.50$ USD for them, a mere percentage of the price we would normally pay in the US. We get avocado yogurt smoothies for dessert, a refreshing way to end the night, and snake our way over to a bar on the corner, the crows of a saxophone spilling out of it. 

It turned out to be a jazz bar, and we stood listening to the uptempo, nostalgic music before making our way over to a reggae joint. I ordered the local rum mojito and took a sip– it tasted like watered-down lime juice, so I asked for a touch more liquor. The woman behind the bar, short with a large dark afro, arched an eyebrow, took the rum bottle, and dumped half of it in my drink. Needless to say, I was in for a fun night. Riley and I soaked in covers of our favorite '70s rock songs, hopped around to a few more bars, making conversation with people from all over the world, and finally headed to bed. We had an early wake-up, for at 6:30am the next day, we had a couple elephants waiting for us to give them bananas.

Standing outside the Jazz Bar

I had heard a lot about elephants and the tourism industry in Thailand. The history of abuse with riding the animals and other harmful practices. That is what made my visit to a family-owned elephant sanctuary in the countryside of Chiang Mai so refreshing. We spent the day feeding the elephants bananas, grasses, and probiotic balls full of nutrients the large beasts need to thrive. We got to go into the river with them, helping them cool off and always maintaining a respectful distance while capturing a few smiling photos. The animals are so large, majestic, peaceful…and quite food-driven. When you look into their eyes, they just seem so good, like there is not one bad bone in their body. It makes me understand how, in some cultures, they are seen as deities. 

Photos taken by: Riley Clark (KeepItWildxRiley)

Returning to the hostel in Old Town Chiang Mai, we rested on the bus ride, and by the time we got back, we were refreshed enough to get on the complimentary bikes offered by the hostel and explore Old Town. We found side streets off the main roads, thin lanes lined with wooden houses, some leading up to ornate temples. These pockets of peacefulness reminded me of a message my Dad wrote to me that same day:

"E, your pictures trigger some of my own memories of Thailand: the contrast between peaceful serenity (abundance of Buddhist temples, gardens, natural beauty, Thai people) vs busy intensity (complex/strong flavors in food, architectural details, congestion in major cities, friggin' size of animals, brightness of smells and colors)"

I thought his message really encapsulates Thailand, and for that matter, most of Southeast Asia: A blend of peaceful serenity and busy intensity.

**note: many of these pictures were taken by Riley Clark