DAY 1

June 8, 2026

Theth, Albania → Valbonë, Albania

Trail Stats

• Distance: 10.01 mi (16.1 km)
• Elevation Gain: 3,448 ft (1,051 m)
• Moving Time: 4:33:53
• Guesthouse: Hikers Hive

We got from Dubrovnik, Croatia, to Teth, Albania by the skin of our teeth. 8 hours, 3 buses. Entering Teth first thought was it felt like El Salvador and Switzerland had a baby. Sorta like crazy tall mountains which are chilly at the top, some snow and mountain flowers. Some old churches and buildings but few and sporadic. Still a developing country (ice ain’t gonna happen, bad garbage facilities, bathrooms are a lil odd.) and the people can scam you. But lots are very nice, and Albanian is not a language I understand in the slightest.

Ended up at a stone house-looking guesthouse that was a mile walk up to. There was a micro dog. We slept in the farmhouse loft, very hot. We walked into town for snacks, then ate dinner and met some Americans from Chicago. Our dinner was rotisserie chicken and home-cut fries. Absolutely amazing.

That night was the first night of night sweats.

The owner of the guesthouse barely spoke English and even when he did he would still end up yelling in Albanian.

The next day was the first hike which was steep, epic, and busy. It was hard to adjust to the weight of our packs.

Big uphill that took the majority of the time. Climb big mountain. Beautiful at the top, got a bit crowded. Then steep 1.5 mile down to get into the valley.

Feeling good. Little loopy from altitude.

Am a little scared for 9 more days where it gets harder, but I know we are strong. It’s just—our packs are fuckin heavy.

We ended up at Hikers Hive, a beautiful wooden lodge. I got a stout and Quinn got wine. Our dinner was traditional, soup, tomato cucumber salad, beef, and ended with blueberry cake.

Lovely night.

Still had night sweats.

Photos from walking to night one guest house–>microdog–>dinner–> hike–>Hikers Hive

DAY 2

June 9, 2026

Valbonë, Albania → Çerem, Albania

Trail Stats

• Distance: 10.94 mi (17.6 km)
• Elevation Gain: 3,901 ft (1,189 m)
• Moving Time: 5:22:46
• Guesthouse: Alpin Zeneli Chalet

Next day we started walking through Valbonë from our hotel to the trailhead.

On the way Quinn convinced us to do the Summer Pass.

It ended up being very snowy but incredibly beautiful and fun.

Feelin good. Light sore throat but food with sort that out.

Steep uphill to start then had to pass through quite a bit of snow which was kinda scary. But amazing views, less people.

Wwe got to slide on our butts on the way down through the snow.

Ran into a 10 year old selling Coke and bought some drinks.

Ran the rest of the way down to escape lightning to our place in Çerem which was called Alpin Zeneli Chalet.

Alpin Chalet is like 5 star resort nice. I’m excited for dinner and both Quinn and I are feeling much more well rested.

Incredibly beautiful in a White Lotus typa vibe.

We had beers but the owner Blaire, who looks like he is 30 but is 50, had an interesting vibe. Like…too welcoming.

Then we had an incredible dinner that ended up being super expensive (the only time this happened) and Quinn got food poisoning.

I was sore that night.

Not a great sleep.

But on the bright side we met our dog Allie (Albania).

Arguable the most stunning hiking day->through snow->slide on but through snow->awesome kid who rode up the pass on his horse and gave us coke-> alpen zeleni

DAY 3

June 10, 2026

Çerem, Albania → Dobërdol, Albania

Trail Stats

• Distance: 10.28 mi (16.5 km)
• Elevation Gain: 3,179 ft (969 m)
• Moving Time: 4:17
• Guesthouse: Private Guesthouse, Dobërdol

The next day we set off for Dobërdol which was supposed to be a chill hike and definitely was.

Easy peasy day but honestly was very down for a rest this afternoon.

Cool valley.

Coooold river.

We got there by 1 p.m. where these super rural A-frames were under the sassy thumb of a 13 year old who checked us in.

We got in the river, took very gross showers, then had to wait four hours for dinner.

Luckily I got a nap in and we met more people, including Andrea and Cecelia.

They are from Spain and the U.S. but live in Germany. They look 25 but are 35.

Kinda big sister vibes.

We also ran up the hill to the other guesthouse to trade dollars for euros from our American friends.

Finally got dinner which was pasta and nuggets but it was nice to talk to people.

We slept in our A-frame and went pee in the middle of the night together where there were beautiful stars.

Mini Ireland vibe.

beautiful quick hike into a swiss lookin valley, cold river, met good people

DAY 4

June 11, 2026

Dobërdol, Albania → Milishevc, Kosovo

Trail Stats

• Distance: 11.19 mi (18.0 km)
• Elevation Gain: 4,009 ft (1,222 m)
• Moving Time: 5:07:43
• Guesthouse: Kulla Guest House

The next day we set off to Milishevc.

It was a nice hike through rolling hills.

Some snow crossings.

Trail was a bit confusing.

Got lost a few times.

Quinn and I were also out of snacks and were starting to starve a bit.

But we finally got to our guesthouse which was another stone house where we met two 21 year old British boys, a 25 year old Israeli guy, and a Kiwi.

Dinner was unlimited chicken, rice, and mac and cheese bread which was delicious once we finally got it.

That night there were crazy lightning storms and we worried about the British boys sleeping outside in their tents.

lovely stairmaster hike out of the valley->snow->last couple miles sucked with no food->nice guesthouse with great meal and people

DAY 5

June 12, 2026

Milishevc, Kosovo → Reka Allagës, Kosovo

Trail Stats

• Distance: 10.95 mi (17.6 km)
• Elevation Gain: 3,120 ft (951 m)
• Moving Time: 4:51:04
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Guesthouse: Ariu Guesthouse

The next day was pure mud.

Honestly today went by fast.

Crazy steep start which went quick.

Ended on top of a mountain with a ton of fog.

Cold.

Then steep wet downhill through trees.

Veryyyy muddy. Prolly cause lightning storms all last night.

It was eerie.

We met the boys at the bottom of the mountain and they had beer and we had caffeine.

Then we all walked the five miles together to Reka Allagës.

The walk up the road to the guesthouse went by fast because we re-met up with the guys we met in the guesthouse the night before.

We were then in Kosovo, and we hung out outside on the porch drinking beers and met Brooke and James, an Aussie and an American travel influencers who were interesting conversationalists.

We met another British guy named Ben.

That night we had to share a room with two others which sucked, and it was ten people to a bathroom, so a bit rough.

But dinner was delicious.

Family style.

Traditional.

Again…excited for dinner.

Foggy, muddy hike, but very quick and fun to meet back up with the brits->great vibes at the next guesthouse and new faces

DAY 6

June 13, 2026

Reka e Allagës, Kosovo → Kuqishtë, Kosovo (via Hajla Peak)

Trail Stats

• Distance: 19.18 mi (30.9 km)
• Elevation Gain: 6,270 ft (1,911 m)
• Moving Time: 7:41:04
• Difficulty: Hard
• Guesthouse: Guri i Kuq

The next day was looong.

We decided to bag the Kosovo peak called Hajla with Brooke and James (The aus influencer and her american husband.)

Awesome we got Kulla mtn peak bag but set us up for long day but honestly super fun.

And thank the lord to the Americans at the top who handed me a bunch of Coors.

Then we ran down and continued on.

About 15 miles in we found a vending machine where we got chocolate croissants. The vending machine was manned by a sheep that looked a little like Micheal Franti.

The 19 mile day with 6,500 ft of vert ended with a 2,000 foot climb up the mountain to our own personal chalet which was awesome. Im talking our own 3 bed 3 bath house.

We are so up.

We re-met up with Andrea and Cecelia at our hotel’s fancy restaurant where we had incredible carbonara pasta.

We went to bed in our mountain house watching the sun set down the mountain.

bamn fam.

DAY 7

June 14, 2026

Kuqishtë, Kosovo → Babino Polje, Montenegro

Trail Stats

• Distance: 11.19 mi (18.0 km)
• Elevation Gain: 4,009 ft (1,222 m)
• Moving Time: 5:07:43
• Guesthouse: Eko Katun Hako

Woke up in beautiful chalet. We slept in and hung out a bit.

Got breakfast at the restaurant where I think I had 10 eggs (an omelette, fried, and hard boiled.) They really like their eggs here and they look so dark orange yoke.

Quinn got pancakes.

Anywho, morning climb looked like Tahoe.

Then we set off again up the rest of the mountain, past lakes, then into Sound of Music territory.

Spirits were a bit low from tough day the day before.

But we ended strong running down the hill to a restaurant where the British boys were called Maslos.

The server was so nice and gave us cake and juice which convinced us to cancel our other reservation and spend the night there.

We had a nice bed and a beautiful view in the valley looking at the river.

They gave us lamb and rice bowls for dinner and more cakes which were like super sweet donuts.

The mom who owned the place was a big woman who only spoke Montenegrin and loved to feed you.

Cold shower.

No service.

Good night.

Tahoe to the top of the pass to I am Maria where are my 13 singing children, vibes got better once a large Montengrin mama gave us cake and a bed

DAY 8

June 15, 2026

Babino Polje, Montenegro → Plav, Montenegro

Trail Stats

• Distance: 14.20 mi (22.9 km)
• Elevation Gain: 2,241 ft (683 m)
• Moving Time: 5:11:12
• Guesthouse: Guest House Hana

The next day we booked it to Plav.

We were speeeedy.

Quick lovely jaunt to one of our first towns in a while.

We wanted to get snacks so bad.

Everyday for lunch prior we had had bread and jam and were sick of it.

We got ice cream at the store–big win.

We made yogurt bowls at our Guesthouse Hana which was super normal hostel looking guesthouse with a view of Lake Plav.

Plav is like a small city, on a lake. Some people are welcoming, others give off a sort of colder, Russian vibe.

But we went down to the docks on the lake and swam with the boys and got beers.

Then we met up with everyone, as it was Cecelia and Andrea’s last night, and got dinner.

Yom.

10 p.m. hit and I was done so I left early and Quinn came back eventually too after hitting one bar.

She also ran into the son of the inn owner from last night who gave us Tom’s passport which he had left.

And for the record Tom lost his phone in a rock crack.

Back in Tahoe vibes, enter countryside, yayayay Plav! Yo Plav, you gotta great lake.

DAY 9

June 16, 2026

Plav, Montenegro → Vusanje, Montenegro

Trail Stats

• Distance: 15.54 mi (25.0 km)
• Elevation Gain: 4,354 ft (1,327 m)
• Moving Time: 5:54:49
• Guesthouse: Eko Katun Jezerca

The next day we went to a bakery for pastries (which honest review, were not very good) then began the climb out of Plav.

Started off with big hill.

We met up with British boys at a farm halfway up where a Montenegrin woman force fed us cheese and raw milk. She was hilarious.

Then we finished the climb and started the downhill.

We found a border collie puppy which I adopted and named Frank and carried 5 miles down the mountain.

After 4 miles a matching puppy came sprinting up to us which was his brother and Quinn adopted it. She decided not to name in in order to not get attached. Smart move honestly as I was in tears when they inevitably abandoned us for higher peaks.

We finally got to our guesthouse in Vusanje which looked like Lauterbrunnen Valley.

We stayed in super nice A-frames and got a good dinner.

Slept pretty good.

Got out of Plav and up to farm, then enter a very steep climb, then multiple miles of down where I met the love of my life, Frank.

DAY 10

June 17, 2026

Vusanje, Montenegro → Theth, Albania

Trail Stats

• Distance: 14.23 mi (22.9 km)
• Elevation Gain: 3,612 ft (1,101 m)
• Moving Time: 5:46:24
• Guesthouse: Bujtina Tinari, Theth

Started off crazyyy to get from guesthouse to trailhead (had to balance on log over cliff with a waterfall below it).

Met up with boys in the valley and began our last hike.

Walked through the valley, chatting.

Did the uphill which finally started hurting all my muscles.

Got to the top and chilled on a rock eating dates and juice.

Finished the climb.

Then at the top it started down pouring where we did the crazy steep downhill down the mountain.

Started lightning storms and hail. I covered myself with a garbage bag and endured the bullying from the boys..

Lovely last day yay POB!

We made it.

Got beers and celebrated at the pizza place in Theth.

Then we walked to our guesthouse which was closer to the church in Theth.

Took showers then ate dinner at our guesthouse restaurant.

The boys went nuts and ordered so much wine and beer. Did I mention England was playing in the world cup and you would think thast it was the season finale of love island by the way the boys lost their minds.