Ella’s Inkwell

ella heydenfeldt’s portfolio & blog

The latest from the blog

  • The Search for Somewhere

    A few months ago, Grant David Crawford published an essay called The End of Elsewhere. It entered Substack virality, drawing thousands of reactions and sparking online debate over the 40-minute essay. The gist: the 300-year Western tradition of searching for meaning by leaving home and entering parts of the world seen as “other” has died.…

  • POB Field Journal

    POB Field Journal

    DAY 1 June 8, 2026 Theth, Albania → Valbonë, Albania Trail Stats We got from Dubrovnik, Croatia, to Teth, Albania by the skin of our teeth. 8 hours, 3 buses. Entering Teth first thought was it felt like El Salvador and Switzerland had a baby. Sorta like crazy tall mountains which are chilly at the…

  • Clips of the Camino

    Clips of the Camino

    A five-day walk along Spain’s northern coast from San Sebastián to Bilbao. Sometimes the photos tell the story better than words. These are my original trail notes from each day, paired with the route and statistics. DAY 1 San Sebastián → Zarautz Trail Stats Trail Notes really cool stops where the spaniards fed us juice…